In the last 6 months i`m working at my electric car conversion. The car was in good shape and was a good candidate for the conversion. 
After i found a place where to work to the car (a garage) i took out the ICE and i begun to measure all the interior spaces to see if the motor will fit.
Today (27.07.2013) i did the first test on the electric motor to see if the motor fits ok inside and join well the gear box. 




After i removed the engine i start taking measurements for creating  the mounting plates.




The car with the engine removed. Now i have space to work.



This motor is a Permanent Magnet Dc motor with 100Nm and 1900RPM total power will be limited to ~ 20Kw depending on how i will manage to remove the heat from the  motor.

  I also received the Batteries:
  Model : A123 Systems.
  Capacity : 20Ah
  Nominal voltage 3.3v
  Continuos Discarge 600A
  Puls discharge 1200A
  Total number of cells in series : 72

 As the DC motor Controllers are to expensive for my budget, and i have  experience in electronics i designed my own pwm controller using Eagle  Cad program.

Specs: Max voltage: 400V
            Max current: 200A
Adjustable current limitation feature,
Undervoltage lockout, thermal shut down, curent sense.




New 30 A123 Systems cells arrived.

The mounting plate for 24 cells in series

1234_cr4The schematic and PCB where designed in Eagle cad.

electric car PWM controller




This is the power module formed by 10 mosfets 500V 32A in parralel.

Now new Toyota Prius first generation IGBT module arrived from ebay.

Toyota Prius invertor igbt module


The internal schematic, Each igbt inside has 27nF gate capacitance.

toyota prius  invertor

Opel agila electric

electric car conversion




















  1. NeOm says:

    Imi plac aceste proiecte… mult succes.

  2. Colin says:

    That’s impressive, congrats ! How do you power the auxiliary systems like direction, lights, etc ? Straight from the batteries ?

  3. Viorel Sosa says:

    Bravo pentru proiect , m-ar interesa schema completa a controlerului vad ca ai ceva afisaj acolo si asi dori sa il fac pentru un proiect propriu de care m-am apucat sa strang documentatie pt moment.
    intrebare : Ce autonomie ai cu bateriile folosite de tine ? si ce rpm are motorul tau ?
    Eu intentionez sa fac conversia pe un Kia asia ( microbus de marfa cu 2 locuri)
    Salutari si sper sa primesc un raspuns ….. noroc in continuare

  4. ciprian says:

    Salut, un proiect perfect pt timpurile in care trăim, păcat ca nimeni nu incurajează cu adevarat astfel de inițiative.
    motorul ales ar fi îndeajuns sa propulseze mașina fără cutia de viteze, de ce ai ales un motor cu doar 1900rpm ?
    după mine ar fi trebuit un motor cu același număr de rotații ca şi motorul original, adică 4000-5000 rpm. greșesc?

    • iulian207 says:

      Nu eu mi-am ales acest motor l-am recuperat de undeva si asa ca fiind gratis e f bun. ma ajuta sa plec direct cu vit 5 si ajunge undeva pe la 55-60km/h ceea ce pt oras e f bine

  5. ronald doctors says:

    I am building a ecar using a PMAC motor and about the same power levels as yours. I need to build a controller for mine too. I would be happy to buy one from you since my voltage is a nominal 360 volts ( 112 LiFePO4 cells ) and my max current is about 40 amps. I was going to make it myself but I would like to support your efforts and pay you. I am an electric motor designer and am designing a very high efficiency motor in this power region 20-50 HP.
    I wondered why you chose MOSFETS rather than IGBTs for the power . I did the same as you for a ebike using the 556 chips but finally realized that i needed pulse by pulse current limiting ( as in the MC33035) because I kept blowing out my Mosfets!! I did use the IRS2113 for the high side drive.
    Let me know if you can supply. I would also be happy to buy, from you, the Eagle layout and schematic and have the boards made in the USA.
    Thank you for a really great site and interesting projects.. I wish i liived closer as I think we would have a great friendship.
    ronald doctors
    Santa Barbara
    CA 93105

    • ronald doctors says:

      I just realized that your motor is DC brushed type!! Ooops!. Mine is a 3 phase PMAC type. Makes the controller more complicated but not unlike yours.
      I still wonder why you did not use IGBT’s… what frequency are you setting the MC33035 to? The MOSFETs will work better at the higher frequencies than the IGBTs and may be your motor inductance is low so this makes sense. Also you might have found a cheap source for the MOSFETS!! :).

      • iulian207 says:


        My MC33035 is set to 12Khz now but i will set to 8Khz when wi will complete my new design with INFINEON 1200V 600Amp IGBT modules.
        The triky part is to have good driver with DESAT function and Opto insulated current sense to provide fast response to the MC33035 current sense pin.

  6. evert dekker says:

    Please send me your address and futher information about the conversion of the opel agila
    and price if you conversion such a car as these opel.

    Thanks by advance

    brouwerij 65
    8401 pn goredijk
    the Netherlands

  7. Silviu says:

    Bravo ma bucur sa vad creatii proprii in aceste vremuri cand lenea domneste.Eu de cateva luni tot citesc de pe net fel si fel de informatii despre cum sa imi modific viitoarea masina electrica.Detin un Peugeot 406 berlina si cum urmeaza sa cumparam una 4×4 in familie visez sa o transform personal in electric.Confirma-mi si mie te rog care varianta e mai buna sa aleg
    1. motor in fiecare roata sau
    2. motor ca al tau cuplat la cutia de viteze ?

    Spor in toate 🙂

  8. DANIEL says:

    Evident ca pe fiecare roata!
    are mai multe avantaje:
    – in primul rand se reduc pierderile,
    – ar putea avea racire naturala,
    – se reduce greutatea masinii,
    – poti avea 2 portbagaje,
    – daca nu vrei o masina sport, poti folosii 2 motoare, pe fata sau pe spate.

    la ce tip de motor cc te-ai gandit? tensiune, putere?

    • Silviu says:

      Pai eu citit ca la masina mea ar trebui un motor minim de 11kw .Masina cantareste acuma 1300kg si am gasit kit-uri gata facute cu manual de instalare de pe la canadieni si americani dar nu am bugetul necesar acuma.Cautand motoare care se folosesc in roata am gasit aici
      cu 450 euro ceea ce zic eu ca este scump comparativ cu un kit care zic eu il pot lua cu pana la 5000 euro toate acceoriile.Eu nu vreau masina sport ci doar sa trec pe electric pentru a nu mai consuma si polua.Mie chiar imi pasa de natura 🙂 Ca tensiune nu m-am hotarat iar daca esti dispus in viitor sa ma ajuti la cumpararea unui kit de conversie si cu sfaturi pe parcursul montarii voi aprecia foarte mult.:)

      • Roby says:

        You can always tell an expert! Thanks for cotrbinuting.

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    • Iulian(owner) says:

      un motor in fiecare roata ar mari costul conversiei de 5-6 ori.Ai nevoie de 4 controlere si 4 motoare in loc de un controller si un motor.

  9. Silviu says:

    Eu ma gandesc si la varianta cu gpl fiindca vreau sa fac o fosa septica cu bazine de fermentare anaerobe si sa obtin necesarul pentru a alimenta un cogenerator pe perioada iernii.Am gasit un regulator de conversie care se pune la generatore care sa mearga pe gpl sau gaz natural de unde eu ma gandeam sa iau un generator de 11-17 kw si sa il pun pe masina cuplat la cutia de viteze.Ma gandesc la varianta asta ca ar fi mult mai ieftin si sar putea face calatorii mai lungi.Curand am sa ma apuc de experimente si am sa vad ce iese.

  10. vio_alien says:

    salut, stii cumva daca sunt ceva probleme legale in a folosii o masina electrica home made, trebuie ceva acte facute sa poti circula cu ea, trebuie omolodgat motorul si daca se poate omologa.

  11. Bird says:

    tare curios cat e scorul conversiei la sfarsit si daca merita…pentru ca din cate stiu io dupa ce se trage linia dupa inmatricularea(reinmatricularea) masinii o sa iese un scor asa de mare de mai bine bagi benzina sau il convertesti pe gpl de banii aia…si eu am incercat de ceva vreme..acu ceva ani sa fac asa ceva…inca mai am afara de baterii…si am renuntat…dupa ce am bagat o gramada de bani am realizat ca e o prostie..intradevar electric e ok..dar nu in felul asta…foarte multe pierderi peste tot…greutate baterii si putere deloc pe masura…si decat sa ma duc cu 30 la ora doar cateva zeci de mile mai bine lasat balta

  12. Vladimir says:

    Salut. Foarte mea plakut ce sa primit. Diama 2 ani ma gindesk sa transfer opel zafira dizeli in elektromobil. Traesk in Chisinau aici nus motoare. Puteti sa ma ajutati informativ si ku piese gatale cumpar depinde de pret.

    • Iulian(owner) says:

      salu.problema motoarelor este pete tot.poti luade la electrocare sau motostivuitoare. cauta la reciclari.

  13. AutomationGuy says:

    You built a motor 45Kw with 165Nm of torque and you put a 20kw with 100Nm of torque motor in your car. Why not use the more powerful motor you built yourself?

  14. Sebastian says:

    Pt BIRD daca ai renuntat la proiectul de conversie, ce ai si la ce pret ai vinde ce ai pus cap la cap ?

  15. cristi p says:

    Cum ai rezolvat cu RAR ul? Ai omologat-o? Ce fel de cerinte au avut astia de la RAR. Asta e un aspect foarte important ca degeaba iti modifici masina daca nu poti merge cu ea pe sosea. merci

  16. Roberto says:

    I want know How you make the speed controller? I have a DC motor brushed 48V 9,1Kw.